There is no prettier place to while away a summer’s evening savoring the skyscape of Santa Barbara than the rooftop “Perch” of Canary Hotel. It is certainly worth the drive downtown to be caressed by sea breezes and join in the fun at one of the many events the hotel regularly holds there for the younger set … barbecues, reggae jams, or weekly Monday wine tastings ($20 a person). But Canary has another, newer treat in store for us located on ground level at Coast Restaurant & Bar. Chef Brian Parks has introduced “Eat, Drink, Local,” a farm and coast-to-table concept. Chef Parks deals directly with local farmers and markets to source the finest seasonal products and then prepares them simply and deliciously. The trend of organic and sustainable market-driven menus continues to lead the way for top chefs in restaurants around the world and Chef Parks steps up to the plate to take the farm-to-fork idea to an admirable level.
Chef Parks sources local, sustainable food, whenever possible, from the Santa Barbara Central Coast region like herbs, mulberries and radishes from Ojai’s BD Farms; red abalone, halibut and Ogo seaweed from Goleta’s Cultured Abalone; blueberries, raspberries and boysenberries from Arroyo Grande’s Mama’s Berries; spot prawns, crab, and sea urchin and rockfish from local fisherman Steve Escobar; heirloom tomatoes, fava beans and English peas from Oxnard’s Tutti Frutti; and peaches, apricots, cherries and nectarines from Oxnard’s Rieger Farms.
These and more highlight his homegrown menu with starters like roasted baby abalone with Ogo-cucumber mignonette; green bean salad with fennel, tomatoes, celery, watercress and garlic-caper vinaigrette; and Kampachi crudo, with Cerignola olives and radish salad. Star entrees include line-caught salmon with English peas; roasted trout with herbs de Provence, spring onions and tomato butter; roasted black cod with corn and fava bean succotash, baby heirloom tomatoes and Bloomsdale spinach; grilled rib eye with Verdalaga and heirloom tomatoes and truffle tater tots. These artfully composed dishes sing of summer’s bounty.
A special, creative prix fixe menu, priced at $30 per person, is presented each night. Ours listed chilled fruit de mer of spot prawn, uni and tuna; diver scallops with red quinoa, pea tendrils and market carrots; butterscotch pudding with blackberries and chocolate. And speaking of desserts, they are wonderfully concocted here, especially the berry and fruit tarts.
Coast has undergone a welcome physical transformation over the years. A cozy new 30-seat dining room on Chapala, swathed with gauzy, billowing white curtains and wicker chairs, seems made for casual hotel dining. And the darker old dining room off the busy bar is slowly evolving into a lounge and can also be used for noshing, both serious and snacks. The wine selection is heroic anywhere you sit.
Who goes here: fun-seeking Gen Y and Xers, lawyers, judges, local business folk and their staff for lunch, Santa Barbarans and foodies looking to eat and drink local for dinner. The bar is always buzzing.
Who to know: Gary, the restaurant manager; Brian, the chef; and Laura, Canary’s affable General Manager.
Coast Restaurant and Bar, 31 West Carrillo Street, 879-9100.
Since 1981 Bill Tomicki has been editor and publisher of ENTREE, a monthly travel and food newsletter called “the Rolls Royce of travel writing” by VOGUE magazine.
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